As always no trip to Austin starts without a Shiner Bock at The Continental Club on South Congress and I had my first taste of live music in the live music capital of the world, The Tyrants. They were a rather ordinary jazz funk band. I could only stand 15 minutes of these guys (and stand for only 15 minutes) before flopping across the road into my hotel room at The Austin Motel.

I've heard various people explaining South By South West, or 'South By' as it's fondly abbreviated to. It's a Summer Camp for music lovers where you completely indulge yourself in live music, amongst other things......

Everyone has their own unique 'South By' experiences and with 1000+ bands playing in the 55 designated SXSW venues and the hundreds of cafés, parking lots, record shops, hotel lobbies, hotel cupboards and every conceivable open space – you'd have a hard time not filling your day with parties, showcases and gigs. I had 12 acts playing this year and so I could've filled my schedule pretty much by them alone, but I was treating this as a drinking and music holiday, an early Summer Camp if you like, and wanted to check out as many acts as possible as well as sharing my experiences with fantastic company.

The Austin Motel (www.austinmotel.com) books up months and months in advance and there is always a waiting list. Graham 'Shipcote' Anderson of Jumpin' Hot Club fame in Newcastle hooked me up with his entourage and as they get guaranteed rooms every year I was pretty damn lucky to get in with them and shared a room with a Geordie who I had never met before, Geoff Brownless – a massive Chuck Prophet fan , who runs an American styled clothing shop in Newcastle. Also in the party: Chet 'Johnny Cash's long lost brother', Keith and Linda (she's a splitting image of Emmylou Harris), Mac, Rob and Mick. More about them later.....

from left ro right: Mac, Geoff, Linda, Keith, Chet, Graham, Rob, Mick and myself crouching down

Wednesday 14th March 2007

Everything got started pretty much as soon as I woke up – no time to get over jet lag – it was straight into 'South By'. We adopted El Sol Y La Luna café as our meeting point where we all got confused as to what we were gonna do and see. Each and every one of us has different music tastes, and with the exception of myself and Graham everyone was a 'punter'. It was a good chance to plug my acts although I didn't really need to thankfully as most have played at The Jumpin' Hot Club already and Graham being the catalyst of the party, was doing it already!

At this point I hooked up with ex-Borderline promoter Barry Marshall Everitt from London who was launching his House of Mercy record company with his wife, the singer songwriter Bex Marshall. It was cool seeing Barry again so soon after our trip to the ECMAs in Halifax, Nova Scotia in Canada and my previous trips to 'South By' have been made more raucous in his company.

Shelley Nordstrom, Barry and Bex Marshall Everitt

The layout of Austin was very familiar and it took me no time at all to acclimatise. Immediately I was confronted with a queuing system to register that just stank of corporate malarkey. This year I had decided to take the plunge and fork out for a laminate / badge. Having not been since 2003 I figured I needed to be seen and to be easily identified. It proved to be the wisest thing that I did as Graham didn't go down this route and a couple of his nights were ruined by not being able to get into the gigs he wanted to.....

I couldn't wait to get out of the convention centre and to immerse myself in the music. I was feeling pretty parched too by this stage and through the Geordie co-operative got wind of a Guitartown / Conqueroo Kickoff Party at Mother Egan's Irish Pub. Again more star spotting – this time Michelle Shocked and New York based Freedy Johnston.

I did catch a few songs of Ed Petterson but then remembered I had a lunch meeting with Austin singer songwriter Kimmie Rhodes and her husband Joe Gracey. I'd forgotten how hard it is getting taxis in this town and unless you had pre-booked a cab, you ended up having to walk, or run as was this case, to your final destination.... How to make a good impression, dripping with sweat, panting hard, having just run the last stretch in the rain.... It was worth it and hope to have Kimmie come over to the UK again later this year. She's playing The Luminaire in Kilburn on Wednesday 18th Aprilwhich I am looking forward to. They are a delightful couple, and I was honoured to be their only meeting of the week.

I kept reminding myself that this is a holiday but I also really wanted to meet people I hadn't done before and meet Stuart Coupe, the owner of the Australian Laughing Outlaw record company – home to The Redlands Palomino Co. and George Byrne, amongst many others. It was good to return to Guero's Taco Bar (www.guerostacobar.com) on South Congress – one of the best bars in town and the best place to get a margarita.

Next stop the Canadian Blast BBQ and Showcase Party at The Big Top at Brush Square Park – free beer, food AND live music.... God, these Canucks know how to do things properly. A lot of my Canadian friends were there: Susan de Cartier, Andy McLean, Shelley Nordstrom and Michel Côté to name but a few – and a feast of Europeans too. These parties are a good chance to meet people and to slap old buddies on the back. The free beer and food are good incentives to stay and Luke Doucet gave a brilliant show accompanied by his wife and singer-songwriter Melissa McClelland. They've moved to Nashville so I'd imagine he felt right back at home with everyone at this gig. I finally got to hear the band Holy Fuck – who were as good as I had been expecting. As they say in Canada “right on, they rawked.....” and that they did....

Luke Doucet and Melissa McClelland

6th Street is an incredible street and pretty much behind every door and on top of each building was a live band. The resultant din / cacophony was pretty immense. I can't remember 6th Street ever being closed off to traffic but it was welcome! A reputed 100,000 people roll from one bar to another every night, it's a miracle there are never any fights. I guess people get into the Austin spirit – it's pretty laid back here.

My first and only disappointment was not being able to get in to see one of my bands, Blackie and The Rodeo Kings at BD Riley's. It's a tiny Irish styled bar – you could hear the music from the pavement and see the backs of the musicians – but it hardly seemed worth it and so the venerable promoter Mike Trotman of Empty Room Promotions in Buckingham and I decided to check out Sunny Sweeney in the larger “The Parish” venue. I do remember some of these venues from previous trips, even though some have changed their names. I'm sure this was once the Mercury Lounge.... Sunny and her band were excellent – very country. Sunny is similar in many respects musically to Kasey Chambers, no coincidence that Kasey's old manager John Lomax III now manages Sunny. The place was packed and caught Jim Lauderdale and Buddy Miller watching from the wings. I liked this venue and instead of being in potentially 5 different venues I decided to stay put and listen to The Holmes Brothers. I'm certain they've played Cambridge Folk Festival at some point – but it was refreshing to hear and see them – good blues music played by maestros of their art. I had hooked up with James Windsor and his tribe from Nottingham by this stage.

Next stop George Byrne at the Whisky Bar – a short hop skip and a jump from 6th Street to this peculiar venue with a tiny stage at the far end. George is Australian and with his devilishly good looks managed to captivate the audience with his inimitable brand of Pink Floyd Americana. ... Top notch guy too – and ran into Bob Egan from Blue Rodeo – always a delight.

Last but not least, I checked out Scott H Biram at The Continental, but my ears had been so charmed by George Byrne, I was left cold and knackered after this.

Thursday 15th March 2007

Blue skies brought out the sandals and shorts and I felt good. I could get quite used to this. This area of South Congress is fabulous for their cafés, bars and live music venues, also their thrift stores, art galleries and Allens Boot Store (www.allensboots.com). An acre of shelves filled with every conceivable design of cowboy boot. The place also sells a wide variety of Western shirts and cowboy hats. I sniffed out a bargain and walked away the proud owner of a pair of cowboy boots.

Jovita's is a venue not too far from South Congress with an inside and outside stage; it's a good place to anchor yourself for a while (www.jovitas.com). Tommy Womack kicked off the proceedings of the “TwangFest” on the outside decked area at 12.30pm with a set of wit-fueled and self-deprecating songs. His fragility is endearing and his rendition of “Alpha Male and The Canine Mystery Blood” exquisite. Inside immediately afterwards was Jim Lauderdale – the monkey grinning songwriting conveyor belt. He – like Tommy – was solo and aired a few new songs which was a treat. I left the venue altogether after some fat pompous twat asked me to move from where I was standing as I was “eclipsing one corner of the bar”.

Tommy Womack

Back outside was Otis Gibbs – a most unusual looking man. Green “Feed and Seed” petrol attendant styled baseball hat, wearing a pair of black rimmed National Health glasses and donning a massive beard. I'm pretty sure he was wearing dungarees as well. He's a good songwriter and he played some memorable songs as myself and my Geordie buddies were trying to work out how old he was. Ages ranged from 32 to 55...

Feeling the need to move on, I headed down to Tea For Texas – The Duke British Music Showcase at Latitude 30, to primarily see highly rated (by Ross Fortune and Sue Cavendish) Ryan Bingham. He's just been taken under the wings of Joe Ely and with a record deal with Lost Highway looming, my expectations were high. Sadly they weren't met and although I could appreciate the musicianship, nothing really grabbed me – much to Ross's disappointment.... The free beer wasn't enough to lock me in and my friend Shannon Martin from Vancouver was keen for me to see her first signing to her new company File Under Music – Dan Mangan. It was a house concert in a hotel room – full of beer and pizza. Any food is fuel and when you're running around it's vital to keep topped up at every conceivable opportunity. Dan is like Paddy Casey in all respects. Slightly short and curly dark hair with the early stages of a beard (not as impressive as Otis Gibbs' though). He was very quiet and eventually performed some songs to a select crowd. He's a very interesting artist – definitely one to watch out for. Shannon knows her onions.

Dan Mangan

One thing I hadn't done yet was to have a margarita and my friend Patricia Elliott from the High Commission in Alberta and British Columbia soon put that right at The Iron Cactus – famed for its margaritas (www.ironcactus.com). It's not all about music this conference and it's great to have a good chin wag with a good buddy about all things other than music.

Finding the EMC Creekside Lounge at The Hilton Garden Inn wasn't easy but I did eventually find it to see Kris Delmhorst. She was slightly frazzled having turned up at Austin with the airlines losing her baggage.... Her songs are so warm and she has a beautiful personality – it was a delight being there and it set things up nicely for the rest of the night.

with Kris Delmhost

I didn't want a repeat of the Blackie and The Rodeo Kings and so in order to make sure I got to see Kelly Willis – with the one and only Master of The Telecaster, America's Mr Cool that is Chuck Prophet on guitar – was to get to Friends really early. The band before happened to be the Welsh band The Story's. Amazingly I had never seen them before and it was obviously high time. They were good, really good songs and convincingly delivered. This was all part of the RykoDisc showcase night and it was another good chance to schmooze a little.

We all love Kelly Willis and she's another artist I've never seen before. She lives in Austin with her husband Bruce Robison – a songwriter in his own right – and their 4 kids. He's had songs covered by The Dixie Chicks which would explain them living in a $1m house!!! She rarely tours and I wonder if she ever will. Chuck is the real deal and has produced her new album which will be out in the summer. He's like the unofficial band leader and it was a magical moment to see him play and to get entranced by Kelly's beauty and her unique singing. The place was rammed to the gills – full of Chuck Prophet fans including my new buddy Geoff.

with Kelly Willis

I worked with Jesse Sykes and The Sweet Hereafter promoting their excellent 2003 album “Reckless Burning” and during that time became friends with Jesse and her partner/guitar player Phil. I so wanted to surprise them by turning up to their gig – upstairs in Buffalo Billiards, a huge room with wooden rafters. Mike Trotman and I ended up hanging out with them after their brilliant set. Feeling slightly three sheets to the wind by this stage, bed was calling. It was lovely seeing them again on and off stage. I really enjoyed hearing their new songs from their new album “Like, Love, Lust & The Open Halls of The Soul”.

with Mike Trotman and Jesse Sykes

Friday 16th March

Aware that time was slipping by faster than I really wanted it to, I was keen to re-visit some of my old favourite haunts and every Friday afternoon of 'South By' Bloodshot Records hold a really good party at the back of Yard Dog gallery on South Congress. It also gave me a chance to check out some of Tom Russell's paintings that were on display. Over the years you get to know people a little and it was cool seeing Nan again and meeting the other guys from Bloodshot – Rob, Angie and Scott. Playing live was Carolyn Markand her band. She's very reminiscent of Natalie Merchant (10,000 Maniacs) especially her song “Edmonton”. I caught the start of Amsterband's set but when they started doing covers it was my call to leave and get myself down to the launch party of Barry's House of Mercy label at Molotov – downtown.

at the back of Yard Dog

The Molotov Lounge is a rather horrible venue, it must be said. The only redeeming features were that it had two stages that enabled a smooth transition between the bands and that there was free food! The word 'free' is welcome – especially when you spend $400 on your badge to get into the gigs. The whole SXSW experience is not a cheap one.... Several acts played, none of which I had ever heard of before with the exception of Bex Marshall, whose guitar playing really has improved since the days I used to see her live at The 12-Bar Club in London in the late 90's.. Austin Collins banged out a few tunes with his band – very generic of country rock – i.e. Good but not outstanding, ditto The Band of Heathens who were an almost replica of The Band, Little Feat and Lynyrd Skynyrd.

Moss starts growing on you and your joints seize up if you stay in one place long enough and next on the agenda was a true Austin moment, Graham and I sneaked a trip to Ginger Man Pub to see James Nesbitt lookalike Freedy Johnston. As with Jesse, I booked a tour for Freedy in March 2002, but the working relationship never blossomed – however, I've always respected him as a great singer songwriter and Graham and I were hoping that this venue was going to be showing England's opening game versus New Zealand in the World Cup Cricket. It was a good job they didn't as we ended up losing which no doubt would've put a downer on the rest of the day. However, as with the last time I was at this boozer, I enjoyed a pint of Pear Cider listening to Freedy stumbling his way through his set marred by a severe lack of confidence and the bleeding sounds from the band who were literally playing on the other side of the wall. Hearing “The Lucky One” again was a highlight. For someone who is a great songwriter, it always amazes me how many covers he does. We actually caught the end of Michelle Shocked's set on arrival – another first.

Shoe-horning a visit to Sin City's party out of town was made possible by Sherry and Betty (from now on known as “Betty-man” by Graham). Betty's good friends with the Geordies and she and I know a lot of people in common, including the doyenne of the LA music scene Shilah Morrow, so this was a super cool thing to do. The venue was Maria's Taco Xpress (www.tacoxpress.com) on South Lamar Boulevard and since my last visit, the venue has been re-built on a patch of land after Walgreen effectively bought the land it once stood on to build a massive drugstore. The trade off was for Walgreen to pay for its re-build and it has become slightly larger with a bigger area at the front to chill out in. You're always going to miss people's set in Austin. It's mortally hard to see everything – but saw the end of Spindrift's set – very cool laid back Californian rock music. I could've stayed here all afternoon... I will next year. Here I sampled for the first time a lovely mango margarita – so all in all a very fruity afternoon. Also ran into Winchester promoter and music author and overall music expert Oliver Gray. We have been working with each other for years on promoting gigs but only every met him once before. Again one of those SXSW things where you travel across the Atlantic and then some to meet up with people who live in the same country as you! Before leaving to head off to the next port of call, Shilah re-introduced me to Gram Parson's daughter Polly, and her daughter.

with Oliver Gray

Maria's Taco Xpress

Hop skip and a jump – as if by use of a latex rope – back to Mother Egan's where Kris Delmhorst was performing 'In The Round' with Eliza Gilkyson and Lynn Miles. A wonderful, bordering on soporific, afternoon augmented by Tony Gilkyson on guitar and Austin-based Radolsav Lorkovic on accordion. I met Rad when he was touring with Andy White the last two times. Kris was by far the stand out for me – not being biased – but I felt the mix was spot on. All three musicians are so distinctly different.

Here I teamed up with the Edinburgh posse that was David Mouat (Lonesome Highway promotions) and Karen Miller (BBC Radio Scotland and The Miller Tells Her Tale Internet radio show) to head off to The Hilton Garden Inn to see Chip Taylor's TrainWreck Review. We were in good time and stole some moments to go to the top floor to look over the whole of Austin and to look down 6th Street with swarms of people now – resembling ants!!!

Chip's found a new fiddle player-come-singer songwriter Kendel Carson, from Canada. She is so different to Carrie in style, hair colour, looks and nationality and Chip was joined by long term guitarist John Platania. Everyone took turns to sing their own songs and because this was an all seated gig, it was hard not to be tempted to shut eye from time to time.... I've seen Chip so many times over the years and his story of how he came to write “Wild Thing” always gives me goose bumps.

Chip Taylor's TrainWreck Review

Ditto as per the previous night, I didn't want to miss out on Freddy Krueger lookalike Jon Dee Graham finishing the proceedings at The Continental Club so more or less after Chip had finished pegged it down there to avoid the queues. Fortunately the line up was really strong tonight – including RockFour from Israel, Ian Moore and Kelly Willis (+ Chuck of course).

Ian Moore was one of my discoveries on my first trip here in 2000 (as was Eliza Gilkyson by the way) and so it was fitting to see him again now on my return. Underrated this guy. A cool cat – not as cool as Chuck, but there again, who could be? – with a really tight band. Highlights for me were whenever the keyboard-come-trumpet player swapped instruments and let loose with his trumpet, creating a tingling crescendo to a song sending me into a delightful spasm – especially on “New Day” from his 2004 album “Luminaria”.

Next up part 2 of Kelly with Chuck – this time Chuck donning a very orange jacket. He looked like he'd been tangoed but together they delivered another blistering set. The drummer reminded us of Andy “Yeah I Know” from Little Britain. This gig was up there with the best. I so can't wait to hear Kelly's new album.

with Chuck Prophet (and someone behind us....!)

Whoever could've predicted what Jon Dee Graham was going to say next deserves a medal. Jon Dee deserves a new dentist.... Jon Dee 'I am not bitter' Graham has a uniquely gritty voice and as well as being an amazing guitarist he writes a good tune too. He also puts on a highly entertaining show, tonight with his band 'The Fighting Cocks' featuring the omni-present John Shipman on drums and Mike Hardwick on guitar. To complete his arsenal, he enrolled the services of the two bar maids to dance rather seductively (fully dressed) either side of the stage. “Why?” was going through the minds of my new Geordie mates Geoff and Mac.

Jon Dee Graham

Ending an evening at The Continental Club is pretty convenient if you're staying at The Austin Motel, it must be said.... It's around this time I missed seeing Gus Dudgeon. He always used to call me around this time to tell me who to check out on the last night of SXSW. Bless his cotton socks – he was a true character.

Saturday 17th March – St. Patrick's Day

These long days were beginning to take their toll and the thought of an onslaught on St. Patrick's Day was not on my desire list.... My renewed insatiable thirst for live music was rife and under normal circumstances 11.30am is too early for a gig. It wasn't today, especially when I knew Luke Doucet (solo) was – complete with his wacky sound effects emanating from a phone handset wired up to his mic stand – at the Redye Distribution 10th anniversary party at Yard Dog. The Mother Truckers was the 'buzz' name amongst the Geordies, but the queue outside to see them at The Continental at midday was too long sadly.... déjà vu? They did sound good from the outside though....

Luke Doucet

In previous years there has always been one artist that's seemingly played every place with a PA and thankfully this year it was one of mine – Carrie Rodriguez – promoting her amazing debut “Seven Angels On A Bicycle”. All her gigs up to now have conflicted with something else and it was apt that this show was in the backyard of her favourite shop in the world – Tesoros Trading Company (www.tesoros.com). Sadly this building and adjoining Las Manitas Avenue Café and a multi-lingual child care centre will soon be bulldozed to make way for a new Marriott hotel.... This seems to be the way things are going here in Austin. Only this week they demolished a building that had never been completed and in its place the new Law Courts will be built. The look of Austin is gradually changing and these funky shops and cafés that exist juxtapositioned amongst the high rise blocks and skyscrapers are one by one being forced out.... I guess that's how things are and you can't expect a town centre to remain the same for years, although the romantic side of me would like to see some 'preservation' of this diverse cultural landscape.

Carrie Rodriguez and band

We caught the end of a spell-binding set by Brazilian musician Luca Mundaca who immediately reminded me of Astrud Gilberto. True Sunday morning music, although Saturday lunch time is fine for me too! It just goes to show the diversity of the music at this event.

Dan Storper of Putumayo World Music announced Carrie on stage with Hans on electric guitar, Kyle on double bass and Brandon Temple on drums. She breezed her way through a set of mostly songs from the album although she did play a song she'd just written with Kyle. Totally dreamlike and Carrie does carry the Midas touch. It's universally accepted that she'll go far.

with Carrie Rodriguez

A cold shower was now needed and I persuaded my trusted colleague Mr Trotman to partake in a pint of Guinness at The Ginger Man Pub to mark the fact that it was St Patrick's Day.

Top of the morning to you

I had been delaying my trip to Waterloo Records (www.waterloorecords.com) as I knew how much money I would end up spending there. It's been some time since I've been to a record shop to be honest. I do all my record shopping on-line, and so I was a little out of practice. Friends quote Waterloo records as being the best in the world and I would be tempted to agree with them. Gone are the days where they used to offer out free beer during in stores to entice you to buy records (I'm not a complete free loader by the way). I did some shopping and wandered up the road to check out Jeff Finlin who was doing an in store at the rival Cheapo Records. There were about 5 people rattling around this vast warehouse – the size of a football pitch – with even fewer people listening to Jeff who was all set up in the far corner.

You've got to prefer Waterloo Records. It's much easier to find records there. Filing records by genre (as Cheapo do) is just too much for my overused brain. Rosie Thomas was due on stage at Waterloo Records at 5pm so that's where I headed. She was her normal self, now incorporating her stand up routine during the banter between songs. I've seen Rosie so many times now that I'm so used to her speaking voice being so different to her singing voice. I could tell there were some Rosie Thomas virgins in the shop – who were quite surprised...

Opal Divine's Freehouse is - despite the fact they were promoting this day as “St. Patti's Day” (doh!!!) and despite the fact the service at the bar is diabolically slow – one of my favourite haunts in Austin (www.opaldivines.com). It's great that Austin has caught up with Ireland, Scotland and on 1st July this year England, in becoming a smoke free zone. It makes going to bars and gigs a far more enjoyable experience. A catch up with my buddy Bas Flesseman of Belmont Bookings, Carrie's manager John Porter and David Jiménez-Zumalacarregui of Love to Art in Spain followed before the evening onslaught kicking off with St John's Newfoundland musician Mark Bragg in another venue that isn't a venue normally – Co-Op Bar on 6th Street. He's wild is Mark – but you've gotta like him. He's the bastard son of Tom Waits, or Nick Cave, or even Jim Morrison... His 3-piece were rocking – and his drummer looked about 15 years old!!!

the wild bear that is Mark Bragg

The Deadstring Brothers are another one of my acts I'd yet to see at SXSW this year and when I did it was at the Bloodshot Showcase night at Red Eyed Fly – a wonderful venue set in an amphitheatre setting. The guys (and gal) simply rocked the place and another one of my musical highlights of the festival. Kurt doesn't talk between the songs – it's not his thing – so it was one continuous high. They were a hard act to follow and The Silos tried their best.

Trotman was my father figure by now (being twice my age – as it transpired.....) and we lead each other nicely astray towards The Ale House, poorly named as it doesn't sell ale, to see Ox – AKA Mark Browning. I've been aware of Mark's music for a while now and found his laid back take on Rock'n'Roll very refreshing albeit laid back. He is Canadian, and so this is to be expected!!! At least I can now say that I have seen him live. A brief visit to Eternal to see husband and wife fronted Blanche was interesting. A sight to be seen and heard. By now I was beginning to get slightly inebriated by margarita flowing freely and felt that latex rope pulling me back to The Continental Club for a last hurrah before heading home.... Thanks for the company Mike. We certainly packed in the gigs!!!

with Mike Trotman

Sunday 18th March

morning!

Roll out of bed into a car full of Geordies bound towards suburbia for lunch/brunch..... My head was still in The Continental Club and was for most of the morning..... Big thanks to Geordie John who now lives in North Austin with his charming wife Teresa, and also to Dutch Tom (who turned up at the hotel with a huge alarm clock on a chain around his neck: I thought I was hallucinating and still drunk – I probably was....) and his wife Marlene for not only taking us to this rendez-vous but driving us back later on in the afternoon. As far as meals were concerned, this was the best – although I probably wasn't fit enough to fully appreciate it....

I had two more things I wanted to do in Austin before leaving. One was to go to Ginny's Little Longhorn Saloon where Dale Watson and His Lone Stars were playing whilst “Chicken Shit Bingo” was going on and the other was to walk down memory lane and do as I did 7 years ago and to see The Resentments at The Saxon Pub on South Lamar Boulevard.

Dale is simply one of the most genuine guys you're ever likely to meet and this was his 17th gig of 'South By'.... talk about hard working.... Ginny's Little Longhorn Saloon (www.musicroom.org/ginnys/) was painfully hard to find – especially when the only information you had was the name of the bar and the road it was on. I do recall a bad cab journey a few years back where the cab driver had no idea where he was going. I was fearing the worst this afternoon. We made it.... To see Dale play on his turf in a tiny boozer was really the highlight of my trip. The setting was special – with some heavy weight biker dudes and their Harleys in the parking lot with their own private bar that none of us had enough courage to go anywhere near!!! These guys are all gunslingers and wear t-shirts “Gunslinger Keith” or “Gunslinger Max”... Here at the gig I met Paul Riley from Proper Records – a proper geezer – and to demonstrate how small this world is, the owner of The George Inn, Old Oxted, Surrey (3 miles from where I am from)....

This boozer is full of character and there weren't many Americans in here today... We witnessed one game of Chicken Shit Bingo which happens at this bar every Sunday and involves a chicken loaded with laxative and whoever has bought the numbered ticket of the box that the chicken poohs on, wins.... Number 46 was the lucky number and the chicken was immediately taken back to its cage outside and the other chickens lined up for the next round. It's simple and not harmful to animals....

Everyone was on form but so obviously on our last legs so to finish the whole trip watching The Resentments (minus Stephen Bruton, who's being treated for throat cancer right now) was just the ticket. Scrappy Jud, Jon Dee Graham, Bruce Hughes plus the omnipresent John Shipman on drums, in a packed pub – the Shiners flowing freely – and Graham, Mac, Mick, Rob and Betty-Man.... This is the life. If only there was a bar like this in Ipswich with the same music policy....

In a wonderful sort of way, it was the best way to round off a fantastic trip – easily the best overseas business trip I've ever had, and 4 hours later I was in a cab airport bound to take me home via a 10-hour stopover in Minneapolis.

To conclude.....

My overall verdict? Fan-bloody-tastic!!!

Highlights? The company: Graham and the Geordies. They're the best bunch of guys I've met in a long time and they really let me into their pack. I could even understand what they were saying – even after a few Shiners and/or margaritas. There was never a dull moment!

Gigs? Kelly Willis, Deadstring Brothers, Jon Dee Graham, Sunny Sweeney, Carrie Rodriguez and Dale Watson are up there amongst the best. I've learnt to stop doing Top 5's and Top 10's as I now work with so many artists.... They're all the best, of course....! There wasn't much that I didn't like to be honest. I don't think I could've seen more live music if I tried... without enjoying myself as much as I did. One colleague of mine bragged about going to 300 gigs on a previous SXSW..... That's nuts.

How did it compare to last time and how has it grown? It's so obviously bigger than it was in 2003 and I'm sure it's got more corporate. I just avoided all the corporate stuff as much as possible and focused on the gigs and parties I wanted to go to (and could get to) and chose wisely who I wanted to hang out with.

It was a crazy time and I nearly got run over 10 times. I saw some old friends and met news ones and missed seeing others that I knew were there.... That's SXSW for you. I have successfully regenerated my musical batteries, to hopefully last 12 months so I can make it to my 6th 'South By' next March.